GARAGE
The Garage Page

MOTORCYCLES  

Buying a used BMW
Selling a used BMW
New Owner FAQ

Rants & Raves

The BMW K75

My K75RT
My K11RS
My K75S

Insurance FAQ
Motorcycle Links

CAR 

SITE
HOME
GARAGE
STUDY
ENTRY
REC ROOM
OFFICE
HEAD
KITCHEN
PATIO

So you just bought a used BMW K-Series Motorcycle...
A Work In Progress by Ted Verrill

Congratulations, you have just bought one of the finest motorcycles ever made. I put this together to help you with the big question, "so what now?"

There are a few things you should do immediately upon buying a bike, most notably add it to your insurance immediately before signing the title/bill of sale and handing over your cash. When you get it home, wash it. Believe it or not, the only way to really get to know a bike intimately is to spend an hour or two with a sponge and an old toothbrush really brightening it up (you'll also probably find lots of little things you missed before -- Doh!) Anyway, after you finish washing it, give it a firm maintenance foundation. What's that?

1. Maintenance Foundation

The BMW K-Series bikes are a joy to work on, and the regular maintenance items are quite easy to perform. With regular maintenance, they will last millions of miles. Make sure to check out the Internet BMW Riders tech section for K-Bikes, there is simply no better resource on the Internet for guidance on how to fix and maintain your K-bike.

When buying a used K Bike, it is important to establish a maintenance foundation. Fluids, lubes, hoses and filters not only degrade with miles, they degrade with time. In order to ensure that your bike is in top running condition right off the bat and to start to get to know your motorcycle as soon as possible, you will want to perform all of the regular maintenance items.  That way, you not only know that they have been done with the highest quality fluids and filters, you have a reliable place to start with your maintenance log. First I will list the recommended services, then items that might nbeed replacing, then finally I will list several tools and materials you should have if you plan on doing your own maintenance. If you are not planning on doing your own maintenance, have your dealer do it. If you are buying from a dealer, have him include a major services (with full spline lube) in the deal.

Non-Maintenance Perishable Items

There are items on the bike that will perish over time, these should be closely checked and replaced if necessary.

 

Non-Maintenance Perishable Items
Crankcase Breather Hose	Buy one and replace it - it is inexpensive ($10 at BeemerBoneyard.) This hose goes bad over time, developing cracks around the hose clamps. Because this is part of the closed air intake system its failure can lead to all kinds of things like poor idling, lean running condition, etc. It literally take 5 minutes to replace, just be careful the hose clamp ends do not interfere with or touch the wiring loom there else the wiring will chaff and might eventually fail.
Fuel Pump Surround	Take a small flashlight and carefully check the inside of the fuel tank for water and residue. The rubber collar that the fuel pump sits in will sometimes degrade and turn to a muddy consistency, especially if the bike has been sitting for a length of time (especially with ethanol gas.) If this goes bad it will clog fuel filters and eventually ruin the (expensive) pump. The collar is easy to replace and usually costs $50 to $75.
Brakes	Brake Hoses - These can go bad over time, especially with poor brake fluid maintenance. Check for swelling and cracking, especially at the fittings. Rotors - Check them carefully for any cracks or uneven wear. If there are ANY cracks the rotor must be replaced before riding - period. Brake Master Cylinders& Resevoirs - Check the master cylinders carefully for leaks and check to make sure that the brake levers return after being squeezed smoothly with no resistance or notchiness. Fortunately there is a rebuild kit available. The resevoirs, especially on the 80's K-bikes, can grown chalky and opaque over time - this is usually also a sign the plastic is breaking down and cracks or leaks are soon to follow.
As you will probably be flushing and bleeding the brake system now is the time to replace any suspect hoses or flaky resevoirs. Replacing the master cylinders is expensive but easy, BMW sells rebuild kits that are quite reasonable but involve more work.
Coolant System	Coolant Sight Hose - These often grow opaque and brown over time - the part is only about $6 and since you are replacing the coolant now would be an excellent time to proactively replace it. Main Coolant Hose - this is exposed to the elements and should be carefully checked for cracks, swelling and leaks. It is also cheap and easy to replace, especially when replacing the coolant. Coolant Expansion Tank - this can often accumulate crud over time - peek inside with a flashlight and if needed clean it out.
BMW Coolant is not too much more than the generic yellow stuff you get at AutoZone, it is worth the extra few dollars. 1 Gallon should last two changes.
Switches	Ignition - these can get flakey over time but are simple to remove and clean, see the IBMWR tech pages. The handlebar switches can also grow flaky over time, especially the red cut-off and green starter switches. Often a well-placed shot of WD-40 will work, replacement is not inexpensive but a good opportunity to upgrade to the Euro version with the switchable headlight.
Fork Seals	These tend to go bad over time and are not difficult but time consuming to replace. If you are replacing them, consider adding fork gators (the ones from /6 and /7 airheads) as they will considerably extend the life of new seals.
Alternator Drive "Monkey Nuts"	If you notice a destinct rattle at idle coming from the rear of the engine it is time to replace these. They tend to break down over time causing metal-to-metal contact in the alternator drive system. They are quite inexpensive to replace but do take time - most people check these during spline lubes. The part number is "12311464877", you might want to pick up the $10 Clutch Housing cup that holds them as well as when there is metal to metal contact the fins in this cup often chip and break.
Electrics	Pull back the tank and closely examine all of the electrics, look for any flattened or frayed wires. Also check all zip-ties, the wiring can often chaff at these and cause faults, smoke, or worse. This is a common problem so check carefully!
Bulbs	Take the time to remove the bulbs and clean all the light sockets with contact cleaner then a little dielectric grease. Dirt and corrosion here can cause maddeningly intermittant faults. Most auto parts stores carry CRC Contact Cleaner and Permatex dielectric grease (get the big tube, you'll use it often.)
Tires	Take a close look at the tires - are there any flat spots, cracks or dry-rot? Check the date code on the sidewall - it should be a four-digit code signifying the month and date of the manufacture of the tire. For example, "3405" would be the 34th week of 2005. The four-digit code may or may not be precedede by two more letters - these are manufacturer-specific and can be ignored. If it is a 3-digit number your tire was manufactured before 2000 and should be replaced as it is at least 10 years old.

Recommended Tools, Parts & Spares

 

Recommended Tools, Parts & Spares
Clymers Manual for K Bikes ($30 to $40)	This manual, or the Haynes, is indispensable to anyone who maintains his or her own K Bike. This should be your first purchase. Available at most dealers or Amazon.com You can also find the (inferior IMO) Haynes manual in PDF format online.
BMW Tool Kit ($125)	This should have come with your bike. If it did not, you will either need to buy one or recreate one as it has almost all of the tools needed to do all the regular maintenance on your bike.
Ratio-Rite ($7.00)	Critical for measuring fluids. Available at your local dealer or online.
Oil Filter Tool ($5 to $15)	BMW makes one for $15, though you can find one at the local K-Mart or Wal Mart that comes close enough. Take a filter with you to make sure you buy the right one.
Horse Syringe/Flavor Injector ($5)	Used for replacing fork oil and vailable at kitchen supply houses like Williams-Sonoma - you can also use a funnel with a length of 1/8" clear vinyl hose attached.
Needle-Nose Pliers ($5)	Needed to remove the circlips that anchor the tank and seat (you can use the pliers in the BMW toolkit but needle-nosers make it much easier.)
Oil Drain Pan ($6)	Get the big one, but make sure it is no more than 5" high (clearance...) Wal/K Mart/Autozone sell one that is enclosed with a pour spout - makes it easy to ferry to your local gas station for recycling.
11mm Box-end Wrench ($3)	This is not in the toolkit and is needed for the brake bleeder valves.
Various Tubes of stuff	You can find these at any most auto parts stores or West Marine, the Wurth 3000 and GD-525 you may have to order online. Wurth 3000 or other suitable Grease Use this for lubing everything from centerstand pivots to the throttle assembly, but leave the spline lubing for the HondaMoly/Wurth 3000 mix or GD-525. Blue Loctite ($3) Anti-Sieze ($3) CRC Contact Cleaner & Dielectric Grease Copper-based Anti-seize Big tub of LAVA Hand Cleaner
Various things to have on hand	Spare oil fill cap (BMW #11141460191 - $3) There will come a day when you'll need it and you will thank your lucky stars you have it. Assorted Zip Ties ($3) Wal Mart Clear plastic hobby/tackle box ($3) Used for holding a bunch of different crush washers and connectors, organized and in one place. 4' Length of 16-guage wire - handy for things like ABS resets
Radio Shack Pocket Digital Multimeter ($25)	From checking bulbs and fuses to setting the TPS, this tool will easily pay for itself. Buy one and find some to teach you how to properly use it.

2. New Owner FAQ

• Q: Why does my bike make a "whining" sound?
  A: The electric fuel pump in the fuel tank makes a whining noise, often more pronounced when the tank is empty. Don't worry, it is completely normal.
• Q: Why does my bike sometimes smoke on startup?
  A: K-Bikes, the pre-1990 K75 in particular, will sometimes smoke when parked on the sidestand. A small amount of oil may seep past the rings into the combustion chamber. Again, completely normal and not harmful.
• Q: Sometimes my bike backfires when I am throttling down.
  A: If this happens rarely it is completely normal and caused by the fuel shut-off setting of the fuel injection. If it happens with regularity, you may need to have your throttle position sensor adjusted.
• Q:What is the proper way to start this bike anyway?
  A: Simply hit the start button, without moving the throttle at all. If it is cold out or the bike stumbles, open the choke (really a throttle enrichment) to the first position. On really cold days, open it all the way.
• Q:My bike runs hot but the fan and thermostat are working fine.
  A: All K-Bikes run a bit hot, the K1100RS a particular culprit. There is an aftermarket fan switch a rider can use to make the fan come on sooner and keep the bike cooler. Fresh coolant will also help.
• Q: I know I should probably carry some spares and a tire kit with me when I travel. What do you carry with you?
  A: I made it a habit to carry not only the essentials that any rider should have, but several spares as well. Here is a list of things you should consider (and yes, all of it will fit in your tail cowling :):
  • Always Carry
    BMW bulb kit, BMW Tire plug kit, BMW first aid kit, BMW tool roll, and a small stuff sack of various bits like spare crush washers, zip-ties, duct tape, electric contact cleaner pencil and blue loctite
  • Carry when touring
    Spare clutch cable, set of spark plugs, a spare fuel filter, single photocopied page hidden in tool roll with your driver's license, registration, insurance card, emergency contact phone numbers.
• Q: So I have heard there are a few clubs I should consider joining?
  A: Clubs are a great source of information, resources and camaraderie (especially the local ones.) The two major national clubs are the BMW MOA and the BMW RA. Which to join? I would recommend spending some time on each's webpage. The MOA is far larger and has greater resources available to members, while the RA has more of a "smaller club" feeling. As for local clubs, make sure to join the local club in your area. That is where you will meet riders that will enthusiastically help you learn about your bike, show you the local roads, and just generally provide great camaraderie. Here is a page on the BMW MOA site that lists most local clubs.
• Q: It looks like I can save some money buying things mail-order, my local dealer's prices do seem a bit high.
  A: Whether to buy mail-order or from your local dealer is an issue with critics on both sides. If you are not close to a local dealer or the price differences are significant you may want to use mainly mail-order. However (there is always a 'however' ;) the reasons for shopping at your local dealer far outweigh the cost savings from buying mail-order. Building a good relationship with and giving your business to your local dealer is critical for several reasons. This doesn't mean you have to go to your dealer for everything, but showing your face in his door occasionally and buying parts like filters and tires will do wonders.
• Warranties. Should a part or product you buy fail, it is usually quite difficult to have a mail-order company quickly repair or replace it. At your local dealer, it is usually a matter of bringing it in on a Saturday morning. Further, a local dealer that knows you and wants to keep your business will be a lot more willing to go out of the way to make sure any BMW warranty work on your bike is quickly and thoroughly done.
• Insurance Claims. A local dealer that knows you and values your business will go out of the way to take in a damaged bike, quickly complete a thorough estimate, then fight with the adjuster for you. Alternatively, you may find yourself at the end of the line at the service department and at the mercy of an ignorant adjuster who's sole incentive it to give you as little as possible.
• "Extras". Your local dealer that values your business will often offer you extras like loaner bikes, service scheduling priority, special sales, tech and information clinics, and special events like bike unveilings.
• More to come :)

3. Ownership Tips

Alright, so what things can I learn that others learned the hard way?

• ID your bike and luggage.
  Have you seen those silver pencils sold at the hobby shops? Buy one and use it to write your name and phone number on the outside of the bag, on the inner lid of your hard cases (just below the lip that goes on the mounting rail where it will be protected from weather and road debris.) They sometimes fall off and you wouldn't believe how many people either fail to have any ID in them at all or have it on the inside where someone must break into the bag to get at it. Also, hide a photocopy of your important documents and a $10 bill in the bike (in one of the tool roll pockets works well) - include your drivers license, insurance information, emergency contact info, etc.
• Start an Owner's Log
  Look up your bike's recommended service schedule and make a maintenance log on which to keep track of what you have done (and what will need doing ;-). Do NOT go by the one in the owner's manual, your local dealer should have one for you that is up to date. Also, keep notes of rides you have taken in a Ride Log - doesn't seem like much now but it will be like a photo album down the road. Keep these in a folder where you should also keep all your receipts as well. Here is a good example of one done online.
• Install the Front Fender Extender ($18)
  Do it now, unless your bellypan is already destroyed.
• Go by and Meet Your Local Dealer.
  A good relationship with your local dealer is critical. Start off on a good note by introducing yourself to the dealer and the parts people while stocking up on the filters and BMW-specific fluids and lubes you will need to provide a maintenance foundation. Have the wrench give the bike a quick once-over and thank him or her with a cold six-pack.
• Join Your Local BMW Club
  Look online, or look for an application at your local dealer.

Comments? Please send them to me at comments@verrill.com

THIS WORK IS Copyright©1996-2010, TED VERRILL
All Rights Reserved.

This material is for personal use only. Republication and redissemination, including posting to news groups, is expressly prohibited without the prior written consent of Ted Verrill.