| 4.5k
Mile Service I |
| Service | Parts | Application
Notes |
| Oil
Change | Oil
Filter, Filter Cover Gasket, Oil fill and drain plug crush washers
BMW
OEM Filter Kit - all items included
Bosch 3330, Mobil-1 M1-102 | Fill
new filter with oil, lube the filter gasket with oil, screw on filter hand-tight
then turn 1/3 with filter wrench. Use aftermarket filters at your own risk, make
sure to remove any labels or stickers that may come off as the filter is constantly
bathed in hot engine oil. |
Oil
- 4 Quarts
4Q BMW Motorcycle Oil, dino or synth
4Q Mobil-1 10/40 5/50
or 15/50 full synthetic | Takes
approximately 3.9 quarts. Fill until on sight glass dot, usually 3.5 quarts, then
top off after letting sit. Top off again if needed after engine has run and been
allowed to cool. DO NOT OVERFILL. |
| Lube | Good
Waterproof Grease
Wurth 3000 | Lubricate
upper and lower clutch cable nipples, side and center stand pivots. |
| 9k
Mile Service II (includes all Service I) |
| Air
Filter | BMW OEM
Filter | Renew
air filter. Many riders do this in much greater service intervals without ill
effect, but it should certainly be done at least every 20k miles. The procedure
take some dexterity. |
| Transmission
Oil | Any good
GL 5 80/90
Drain and fill crush washers
Mobil-1 GL5 75/90 Synthetic | Takes
approximately 850cc/0.9 quarts - fill, let settle, check with dipstick (aka the
shock adjustment tool in the tool bag) and top off as needed. DO NOT OVERFILL. |
| Final
Drive Oil | Any
good GL 5 80/90
Drain and fill crush washers
Mobil-1 GL5 75/90 Synthetic | Takes
approximately 260cc/0.28 quarts - excess will flow out of fill hole. Check the
vent/weep hole and cap at the top of the final drive to ensure it is not clogged
and the cover turns freely. |
| Spark
Plugs | 3 Bosch
X5DC
3 NGK D7EA/7912 | Make
sure to correctly set the gap at between 0.6 to 0.7mm, or 0.024 to 0.028 inches.
Fortunately the cheap little wheel/wire gappers found at auto parts stores have
a 0.64mm setting. Carefully check boots for any cracks or signs of arcing. Inspect
removed plugs for proper running condition. If a lean condition is found (accompanied
by some stumbling or difficulty idling) proceed to check for air leaks in the
air intake system.) |
| Fork
Oil | | Takes
approximately 330cc/11.2oz for all K75 but the S, and approximately 280cc/9.47oz
for the S. This is a somewhat cumbersome service, it pays to have a funnel with
an 8" length of 1/16th diameter tube or a flavor injector type syringe. |
| Check
Cable Plays | | For
K75 - freeplay at handlebar, 2 to 2.5mm; length of inner cable at gearbox is 75mm
or 2.95 inches.
For K100 - freeplay at handlebar, 4 to 4.5mm; length of inner
cable at gearbox is 75mm or 2.95 inches. |
| Check
Oil/Water Pump | | Carefully
check the oil/water pump to ensure the weep hole is free and unclogged and to
check for any evidence of leaks. If you observe coolant leaking from the weep
hole and notice a drop in your coolant level it is time to rebuild the pump. Also
look for oily residue in the coolant overflow tank. If you catch this early it
is a simple matter of removing the pump and taking it to a dealer for seal replacement
(it is a tricky procedure and best left to a dealer.) If you ignore it the shaft
might become pitted and require replacement ($) and/or the seals may totally fail
allowing coolant and oil to intermix ($$$$$). Note that ognoring the annual coolant
service can and will result in a seal/pump failure over time. |
| Yearly
Annual Service |
| Fuel
Filter/Gas Tank | BMW
OEM Filter
MAHLE KL145 NAPA
Gold 3032 | Carefully
check the inside of the tank with a flashlight, paying particular attention to
the rubber fuel pump mount and fuel lines. The mount often deteriorates over time,
especially with ethanol-based fuel, and turns "muddy." Replacement is
easy and it pays to catch it early as its total failure will often take the pump
($$) with it. Note that all aftermarket save for the Mahle are very much at your
own risk, the pump overflow release valve is rated at 65psi, the burst pressure
on many aftermarket filter applications is at most 60psi. The replacement rubber
mount is OEM only, replacement hose must be SAE 30R10 rated, for high-pressure
Fi/submersible use. Replace small hose clamps as needed. |
| Brake
Fluid | 1Q DOT
4 | Replace brake
fluid at front and rear, and ABS system (this is best done with two people.) Make
sure you have an 11mm box-end wrench for the bleed nipples as this is not included
in the tool kit. Note that Speedbleeders and a Mity-Vac are very popular and make
this process much easier. Also check brake pads with a small flashlight, replace
if necessary. Also check the rear plastic fluid resevoir, these sometimes turn
chalky over time and eventually fail - this is an excellent time to replace or
if you have the earlier style, to upgrade. |
| Check
Coolant Overflow Tube | | The
coolant overflow level tube becomes chalky and opaque over time, often leading
to a failure. It is cheap and easy to replace. |
| Battery | | Check
to ensure the posts are clean and free of deposits, and cell fluid levels. If
needed, add distilled water only. |
| Driveshaft
Spline Lube | HondaMoly
60/Wurth 3000 even mix
Guard Dog GD525 | Lubing
all of the splines is a detailed and lengthy service. Often folks will reguarly
lube the driveshaft splines (easy) and only do the engine/clutch spline lube service(difficult)
if there is evidence of need such as difficulty downshifting, or every 20k-40k
miles. The procedure to lube the driveshaft splines is not difficult and many
do it as part of the annual or biennial service - remove the final drive, clean
and carefully inspect, then lube the final drive splines; clean, carefully inspect,
and lube both ends of the driveshaft. Also a good time to replace the swingarm
boot if there is any evidence of water intrusion. |
| Electrical
Connections | DeoxIT
D-Series - Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator or similar | Check
all electrical connections. Clean and apply contact cleaner/rejuvinator as needed.
Some also recommend CRC QD cleaner, and to a lesser degree, WD-40. Also check
the wire runs along the frame (especially at and around the steering head) where
they are held with zip-ties - zip-ties often cause both obvious and hidden chafing
and wire failure leading to maddening electrical gremlins. I know one fellow who
replaces the zip-ties every other year. |
| Every
Other Year Service |
| Coolant | 1G
BMW Purple Stuff
1G Distilled Water
BMW OEM Coolant system specific crush
washers. | The
BMW coolant is more expensive than alternatives, but one gallon will last you
4 years. I'd recommend spending the extra $10 or so and go with the OEM coolant
specifically made for these engines. Do not ever use DexCool. Do not use tap or
spring water, only distilled. Make sure to check the collant hoses carefully,
they often swell and crack over time and this is an easy time to replace them.
Also check the radiator cap, and unless yours looks new, replace the inexpensive
clear coolant level hose at the overflow resevoir. |
| Crankcase
Breather Hose | BMW
OEM Hose
2 Hose Clamps as needed. | This
is not found on the BMW service sheet but this hose often deteriorates and develops
cracks, allowing unmetered air into the intake system and creating a lean condition
that results often in poor idling/stalling (especially after the engine warms
up) and premature wear on sparkplugs. It is cheap and simple to replace. |
| Valve
Clearance | | This
service is not difficult but it is beyond this simple sheet - read a more thorough
write-up or take to a dealer, especially if you are unwilling to buy the needed
shims mid-project or buy the entire shim kit ($$) beforehand. |
| Full
Spline Lube | HondaMoly
60/Wurth 3000 even mix
Guard Dog GD525 | Complete
Spline Service - many simply regularly lube the driveshaft splines and reserve
the full service for 20k to 40k intervals unless there is evidence of need such
as difficulty downshifting. |
